Betty's Kebaya


 I met Betty at a coffee shop in Singapore’s Thomson neighbourhood where she was living. She hails from a Eurasian family, the smallest ethnicity in this cosmopolitan city-state. Her Portuguese ancestor married a Chinese lady and they stayed in Singapore ever after...

Once Betty invited me for New Year’s Eve to celebrate with her close knit family. With our chopsticks we tossed the traditional salad from its huge bowl into the air as high as we could. The winner would have good luck for the year to come. Later on we exchanged presents in little bright red parcels and played cards. Behind the façade of their sky scrapers and glitzy malls Singaporeans are traditionalists and love to spend time with the family clinging to their customs in a speedily changing environment.  

When I unwrapped my present I was thrilled. I found a beautiful kebaya which had belonged to Betty’s mother. In the olden days Singaporean Eurasians and Peranakans of mixed Malay-Chinese parentage, the so-called Nyonyas, wore the elegant kebaya blouse to a matching sarong. The kebayas differed in coulour but the cut was always the same and the rims were embroidered. A large silver brooch would replace the buttons. A matching embroidered top was de rigueur as no decent Singaporean lady would show too much of her décolté.


Singapore celebrated this heritage in a Sarong Kebaya exhibition at the Asian Civilisations Museum in 2011 still to be experienced on You Tube.  

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